Skagit County, Chapter 1,
Period of Settlement through
1870
Taken from Skagit River Journal
Click here to go straight to this article at the Skagit River Journal site.
[Ed. note: This is a transcript of the 1906 book, Illustrated
History of Skagit and Snohomish Counties,
which was the most comprehensive published history of the area in the early
years. We plan to publish more excerpts in the future. The book was in two
parts: paid biographies of noted settlers in the back half and research of
local newspapers and the results of interviews with pioneers and their
descendants in the front half. These pages are in the editorial part and cover
the settlement of what became mainland western Skagit County after the
settlement of Fidalgo Island.]
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Although the beginning of
permanent settlement on the mainland was not till after the first pioneers had
established themselves on Fidalgo Island, the magnificent valley of the Skagit
did not escape notice entirely, while the country to the north and the south
was settling up. Indeed there is very good authority for the statement that an
attempt was made to appropriate a portion of it as early as 1855. The would-be
settlers were a party from Island county, consisting of Winfield Ebey, a
brother of the well-known Colonel Isaac N. Ebey, George Beam and wife, Walter
Crockett and Mrs. Mary Wright, a sister of Colonel Ebey, who after-ward became
Mrs. [Urvan] Bozarth. All were newcomers to the Sound except Crockett. They
were looking for a suitable location to run cattle and horses and thought they
had found such a place on the north fork just above the spot where the bridge
now spans that stream. Thomas P. Hastie, who was well acquainted with them on
Whidby Island, says the site of their settlement is known beyond dispute, as a
large cedar tree, which is still standing, at one time bore the names or
initials of the party. [Ed. note:
Whidby was the old spelling through the 1950s, a corruption of the namesake,
Joseph Whidbey, who was a member of Captain Vancouver's Discovery crew in 1792.
We use the modern Whidbey spelled from here to the end.] Claims were staked out
and preparations begun for the erection of cabins. There is no doubt of the
intention of these people to form a permanent settlement, but the execution of
their designs was cut short by the Indian difficulties which culminated in the
war of 1855-6. The ladies returned to Coupeville in haste after only one
night's stay in the valley, being thoroughly frightened by the unfriendly
demonstrations of the Indians.
No doubt the Skagit River received
many visits from prospectors during the Fraser River excitement. In an old copy
of the Northern Light [from Whatcom] we find the following notice of one of
these gold-hunting expeditions. The date of the paper is July 17, 1858:
Major
J.J. Van Bokkelen, who called upon us Wednesday, informs us that the day before
he left Port Townsend, A.S. Buffington, J.K. Tukey and others, old settlers of
this territory, returned from the valley of Skagit river. They stated that in
the first twelve miles of the river they met with obstructions consisting of
three rafts, after passing which they prospected the bars, and invariably found
gold. When the party reached the forks of the river they went up the northern
branch to Mount Baker and fell in with several Indian camps. Mr. Hastie says he
remembers this party. While they found gold widely distributed, it was
not in paying quantities. [Mr. Van Bokkelen was the Jefferson County auditor and postmaster.]
First settlers on mainland of
future Skagit County
It is not easy to determine who
was the first to establish a permanent settlement on the mainland of Skagit
County. The honor is generally supposed to belong either to Samuel Calhoun or
Michael J. Sullivan, but there are those who think that both these men may have
been antedated by others. Mr. Calhoun, now a resident of Hopewell Cape, New
Brunswick, has very kindly taken great pains to write out for the compilers an
account of his settlement and pioneer experiences. He says that while working
as a shipwright at Utsalady, he was seized with a desire to find out what was
across the bay in the gap he saw between the hills so, in the spring of 1863,
he hired an Indian to go with him on an exploring expedition. The Indian had
been dubbed Sam Gallon on account of his having once stolen a gallon of whiskey
and swallowed the same in an incredibly short time. They crossed the bay and
ascended Sullivan Slough, following the right-hand branch, to the vicinity of
Pleasant Ridge, where, in a beautiful red cedar grove, they encamped for the
night. Next morning Mr. Calhoun sent the Indian with his canoe to the mouth of
the north fork, while he himself climbed a tall tree on Pleasant Ridge and took
a view of the surroundings.
"1 was fairly delighted with
the prospect," he writes. "I thought it the most beautiful sight that
I had ever beheld. 'Here,' I said to myself, 'is a country within range of my
vision that will support a million people. Here is my home where I shall spend
the remainder of my life.' " He then made his way to the mouth of the
river, wading tule swamps and creeks, found his Indian, returned to Utsalady
and began preparations for settlement. The country appealed to Mr. Calhoun as
it would to few others from the fact that he was familiar as a boy with
marshland [in his native New Brunswick] and had seen considerable diking done.
He failed not to note the apparent richness of the soil, the protection from
surf which the islands afforded, the numerous sloughs and creeks offering
facilities for water transportation. All in all he considered those Swinomish
tide lands the best body of tide marsh he had ever seen.
As the site for his home, Mr.
Calhoun chose an old Indian encampment close to Sullivan slough, but above the
reach of the tides. His claim is now the home of Isaac Dunlap. He was fortunate
in finding an excellent garden spot of about three-quarters of an acre, in
which he planted potatoes and garden seeds brought from Utsalady. That fall he
had all the vegetables he could use and some to give away. After planting the
garden, he went to Utsalady to work for three or four weeks and it was upon his
return from this trip that he first met Michael J. Sullivan. Mr. Sullivan had settled
on a place nearby. He might easily have been there when Calhoun first came and
escaped notice, for had he been a smuggler and hiding away from custom-house
officers he would have been comparatively safe in the secluded retreat he then
occupied. Mr. Sullivan has himself been interviewed regarding the time of his
settlement, but he is not now very good at remembering dates.
In bringing lumber from Utsalady
to build a house, Mr. Calhoun came near being shipwrecked, but notwithstanding
the fact that his Indian companion became paralyzed with fear and could render
no assistance, he managed by heroic exertions to get his boat, his lumber and
his Indian safely to shore. Before the close of 1863, he had built a house for
himself and assisted Mr. Sullivan to fix up his. The following spring the work
of diking began. Calhoun and Sullivan together diked sixty acres on the
latter's claim and Mr. Calhoun was engaged in enclosing a forty-acre tract on
his own land when the season closed. The white men in the other neighborhoods
of the sound were very much inclined to ridicule these efforts to make a farm
on mudflats, where the tides overflowed, but when the first immense crops were
harvested they saw their error. [See the web site for Calhoun-Sullivan features
in Issue 21 for the complete story of these first settlers.]
At the time this settlement was
made the Swinomish Indians were in rather bad repute among the whites. It was
said that a year or two before a surveyor named Hunt, while on his way from
Penn's Cove, Island County, to Whatcom, was killed by them, they fearing he
might work some evil incantation upon them with his instruments. They were also
credited with having killed an old and some-what insane man who had built a
cabin close to the banks of the Swinomish Slough, and stories were rife of
persons who were known to have attempted a passage of the slough and were never
heard of after. But notwithstanding all these reports, the two settlers were
not molested by Indians, though their old chief came to Calhoun after his house
was built and wanted to know what he was going to do there. When informed, he
said:
"You must be a fool. Don't
you know that in winter, when the big winds come, the water will be two or
three feet high all over the ground?" Mr. Calhoun said he knew it, but
that he intended to throw up the earth higher than that and keep out the water.
The chief then asked if he did not know the land belonged to the Indians.
"No," said Calhoun, 'according to the idea of the Bostons the Indians'
land is on the reservation." The chief replied that that was the Bostons'
Cultus wa wa (bad talk in Chinook jargon) and that he could drive out the white
men or kill them if he chose. "That is true," replied Calhoun,
"but if you should the soldiers would come with fire-ships and kill many
of you." The Indian admitted that such would be the probable result. He
accepted Mr. Calhoun's proffered hand and the friendship there begun was never
broken.
It was long before the Swinomish
flats began to settle up with all degree of rapidity. Notwithstanding Mr.
Calhoun's glowing picture of them, they were to most people a dreary waste.
Miss Linda Jennings writes:
"Perhaps,
few pioneers in the history of our country ever attempted to build homes in a
more uninviting region. The people of the older settlements of the sound knew
of this stretch of marsh and many of them had seen it, but they thought it
absurd to try to reclaim such a desolate tide-swept waste. At high tide, the
Indians paddled their canoes wherever they wished over what are now the finest
farms in Washington. The marsh was ramified by countless sloughs, big and
little, many of them long since filled and cultivated over. In the summer,
tule, cattail and coarse salt grass flourished and it was the home of many thousands
of wild fowls amid muskrats, an ideal hunting ground for Indians. Before anyone
located here, the settlers of Fidalgo Island used to visit the Swinomish in
summer and cut the wild grass for hay. The first settlers were the objects of
much ridicule from their friends in the neighboring settlements. When we
consider the great dikes that must be built around their claims we can
understand why it seemed an almost impossible task."
For the first few years, Messrs.
Sullivan and Calhoun were the only white settlers in their neighborhood. The
next permanent settlers, Mrs. Calhoun says, were John Cornelius, Robert White
and James Harrison.
Did two other men predate
Calhoun and Sullivan?
At an early date, two men named
Rollins and McCann, natives of New Brunswick, took what afterward became the
Dodge place, in Dodge valley, near the mouth of the north fork of the Skagit.
They are said to have diked in a few acres between the site of the present
residence on the place and George Aden's. Thomas P. Hastie says they bought
cattle of him on Whidbey Island as early as 1869 and gives it as his firm
conviction that they antedated both Calhoun and Sullivan in settlement in
Skagit County. Shortly after 1869, they disposed of their land to E.T. Dodge
and turned their attention to logging, McCann on Camano Island and Rollins in
Humboldt County, California.
Notwithstanding all the
difficulties, the Swinomish country began to settle up quite rapidly in the
late 1860s and early '70s, when the feasibility of diking it and its immense
fertility began to be demonstrated. [more at the web site about Calhoun and
Sullivan, with observations by researcher Tom Robinson.]
Swinomish/LaConner settlement
The first trading post on the
Swinomish flats was established in May 1867, upon the site of the present city
of LaConner by Alonzo Low, now a resident of Snohomish. [There is disagreement
about whether the post was on the LaConner side or the reservation side on the
west bank of the slough. See our Low family story at the web site in Issue 21.]
Low and Woodbury Sinclair [his brother-in-law] engaged in the mercantile
business at Snohomish City in 1864 and opened the Swinomish branch as stated,
with Low in charge. The enterprise failed, however, and was abandoned fourteen
months after its establishment. Low gave the building to a mulatto named Clark,
who lived with an Indian woman, in consideration of Clark moving the goods, and
a yoke of oxen (taken by Low in payment of a debt) back to Snohomish. This was
accomplished by boat.
Thomas Hayes is the next Swinomish
trader of whom we have record. The exact time of his appearance is not known,
but it must have been very shortly after Low abandoned the region in the summer
of 1868. It was during this time that the Swinomish post office was established.
When John S. Conner came, succeeding Hayes, this post office was either
abandoned and the LaConner post office created, or the name was changed to
LaConner.
[Ed. note: Louisa Ann Conner told historian Edmond S. Meany in 1919
that she ran a millinery store in Olympia after she and her husband, John S.
Conner, arrived in August 1869. John explored the Sound for suitable land and
he found the Swinomish property, which she said was opposite the channel from
the reservation, on what is now the town of LaConner. Mrs. Conner told Meany
that she moved up to join him on New Year's Day, 1870. The book, Chechacos All,
states that the town and post officer were called Swinomish until the name was
changed to LaConner on March 29, 1870, using his wife's initials for the new
name. People have been arguing "space or no space" between
"La" and "Conner" since that time, and both versions have
been used, sometimes in the same medium at the same time. We use LaConner
consistently, so that the town name can be searched throughout our web site.]
Laurin L. Andrews, at present
cashier of the Bank of La Conner, tells us that when he first visited the place
in the fall of 1870, he found at what is now LaConner, J. S. Conner and family,
keeping a store and post office in their residence building which stood on the
spot now occupied by the Gaches brick block; Archibald Siegfried [misspelled,
should be Siegfried] and family [Louisa's brother], conducting a boarding house
in a building on the site of the Corner saloon; J.J. Conner, a cousin of John,
operating a little trading vessel, the True Blue, with headquarters at the
village; back on the flats, Michael Sullivan. Samuel Calhoun, Edwin T. Dodge
and family, Robert White and family, near Sullivan; Harvey Wallace at Pleasant
Ridge; James Williamson in the same locality; John Cornelius and family at
Pleasant Ridge; James Harrison, on what is now the Armstrong place, and on the
reservation, Dr. W.Y. Deere, government farmer in charge of the Swinomish
tribe. Deere was not a physician. His title was given him on account of this
having at one time served as a hospital steward.
First white women settlers and
families
The first white women to settle on
the Swinomish flats were: Mrs. J.O. Rudene, formerly Mrs. John Cornelius; Mrs.
Edwin T. Dodge, Mrs. Denison, Mrs. Robert White, Mrs. John S. Conner and Mrs.
Archibald Siegfried. The last named lady was the mother of the first child born
on the flats, but unfortunately the baby did not live. In May 1871, Maggie,
daughter of Mr. Mrs. Robert White, was born. It is thought that she was the
first white native [girl born] in the flats to live, if not the first in the
county. Mrs. Charles Hubbs, sister of Mrs. Rudene, is deserving of mention
among the early pioneer women, though her home was on the reservation opposite
LaConner, where her husband was serving as telegraph operator.
The year 1871 brought a number of
settlers, among them Isaac Jennings and family. Those settlers Mr. Jennings was
able to recall as living on the flats at that time in addition to the ones
already mentioned, were the following: the Manchester family, south of
LaConner; William Woodward, a bachelor north of LaConner; Edward Bellou, a
bachelor in the same locality; a bachelor known as "Pink Man;" the
Terrace family, Michael Hintz, James O'Laughlin [O'Loughlin], Charles Miller,
C.A. D'Arcy, G.W.L. Allen, Isaac Chilberg, a minister named Thompson, who used
to preach occasionally at the McCormick farm; Laurin L. Andrews, a young
merchant on the reservation; and Thomas Calhoun. In addition to these there
were Mr. and Mrs. Harvey Wallace on Beaver marsh, near Pleasant Ridge, Albert
and Milton Leamer, brothers of Mrs. Wallace, and John Wallace. Mrs. David
Leamer, mother of Albert and Milton and of Mrs. Wallace, settled near Pleasant
Ridge in October 1871 and still resides there. Frederick Eyre was also in the
country, though not a settler at that time. David Culver came to the flats
about 1872; James Gilliland was in charge of the telegraph station at LaConner
in 1872 and for many years afterward.
The Swinomish settlement was not
without some of the conveniences of civilized life in the late 1860s and early
'70s. Already two of the sound steamers were contending for their trade, the
fifty-ton side-wheeler, Mary Woodruff, John Cosgrove, captain; and the J. B.
Libby, John A. Suffern, captain. They plied between Seattle and Whatcom, via
the inside route as it was called ‹ Swinomish slough ‹ making the round trip
every week At this time the freight was three dollars and a half a ton, but there
were instances when the fierce competition between the two forced it down to a
dollar or even less. The service, however, was not very satisfactory. E. A.
Sisson says the Libby often got stuck on the flats at Hole in the Wall near
LaConner or at the upper end of Swinomish slough and would lie there
contentedly for two or three days, charging the passengers a good rate for
their board. In the spring of l868, Mr. Calhoun finished a small, flat-bottom
schooner, named the Shoo-Fly, suited to transferring logging camp outfits,
lumber etc., in shallow water.
Another of the conveniences of
this early period was a telegraph wire to the reservation. Mr. Calhoun says
that after the trans-Atlantic cable had twice broken, people began to think it
a failure, and a telegraph company commenced to run a line along the coast
through Washington territory to British Columbia and Alaska to the Bering
straits, expecting to cross to Asia and thence to Europe. The subsequent
success of the Atlantic cable put an end to this scheme. But the Swinomish
people nevertheless had telegraphic connection, which they would not otherwise
have enjoyed for several years. About the middle 1860s, a post office was
established on the reservation, making it no longer necessary for the pioneers
to go to Utsalady for mail. Still later one was secured on the site of LaConner
(it was named Swinomish post office) with Thomas Hayes as its first postmaster.
The value of the country as a
grain-raising district began to be realized very soon after diking commenced in
1864. Mrs. Rudene then Mrs. John Cornelius, is quoted as saying that when she
came from Whidbey Island in 1868, Mr. Sullivan showed her a splendid field of
oats, which he claimed were the first grown on the Swinomish Flats. In the fall
of 1869, three men had considerable crops of grain to be threshed, Michael
Sullivan, Samuel Calhoun and E. T. Dodge. There was no threshing machine on the
mainland, so Mr. Calhoun went to Whidbey Island and brought men, horses and
machine. Sullivan's crop was threshed first, then Calhoun's, then Dodge's.
Calhoun got twelve hundred bushels of barley from twenty-one acres, and both
the other gentlemen realized much better returns than they had expected, so the
scoffers at those establishing farms on the mud flats were [effectively]
silenced. In 1876, Mr. Calhoun brought a steam thresher to the flats, the first
that was ever imported into western Washington, and in 1877, Whitney, Sisson
& Company imported the second machine.
The north end of Swinomish flats
was not much behind the La Conner country in settlement. The first settler in
the vicinity of Padilla Bay was James McClellan, a bachelor from California,
who located about the year 1869 on the place now known as the Smith ranch, but
which he named Virgin Cove. For months his only neighbors were a family of
Indians, who regarded him as an intruder on their lands, for they claimed by
right of inheritance all the country between Indian slough and the Samish
River. Several times Mr. McClellan thought these Indians were plotting to kill
him but he put on a bold front, showed no fear and was not molested. It is
almost certain that no white family would have been so patient with one whom
they regarded a trespasser.
McClellan's first white neighbor
was Jacob Highbarger, who came about 1870 with his Indian wife and family. Next
year, McClellan's former partner in the stock business in California, M.D.
Smith, rejoined him. The partnership was renewed. They diked a portion of their
marsh land, but unfortunately in building the dike struck a layer of sand which
permitted the salt water to leach through, so that good crops could not be
raised until an outer dike was built. In the fall of 1870, William H. Trimble
took a claim for himself and one for G.W.L. Allen adjoining the farm of Smith
and McClellan. A year or so later, Allen built a fine house on an elevated site
and brought his family to live in it. In 1872, Samuel McNutt and Albert
Jennings took claims which were later purchased by John Ball, diked by him and
made into a fine large farm. Jennings was a railway engineer, employed in
Oregon, so the burden of holding residence upon this property fell upon his
wife and little boy.
Whitney, Sisson and Tillinghast
settle at Padilla
Some time about 1870 or 1871,
Michael Sullivan sold for one thousand six hundred dollars at the river bank
the crop of barley raised on forty acres of diked land. The story went clear to
Pennsylvania. R.E. Whitney, E.A. Sisson and others heard it and soon began
planning to migrate to the sound basin. Whitney arrived at Padilla in August
1872, bought the right of a man named White, filed a preemption, and with Mrs.
Whitney, began residence in a pioneer shack. For many years after he was one of
the leading men in the great work of tide land reclamation, one whose faith
never wavered, who knew no discouragement. In the December following his
arrival, he was joined by two cousins, E.A. Sisson and A.G. Tillinghast, whom
he took into partnership, forming the firm of Whitney, Sisson & Company.
This partnership was finally dissolved in 1877, not, however, until it had
expended much money, labor and effort in diking land.
The work was discouraging enough
at first. The company, together with Trimble, Highbarger and Allen, constructed
three miles of dike and several expensive dams across sloughs, using seventy
thousand feet of lumber and paying forty dollars a month and board for men.
During the winter of 1873-74, four of these costly dams went out, the salt
water was let in and cultivation was delayed another year. They were rebuilt in
1874, and in 1875 the first crop, twenty acres of oats, was produced. The
destruction of the dikes was so discouraging to Messrs. Tillinghast and Sisson,
that they offered to donate a year's work to be allowed to withdraw from the company
neither owing nor owning a cent, but Whitney would not listen to any such
proposition. He insisted that all go ahead, which they finally decided to do.
In 1873, Whitney, Sisson &
Company built the old "White House" on Bay View Ridge, and as showing
some of the conditions of life in those days it may be related that the lumber
was brought from Utsalady by the steamer Linnie, which dumped it out in the bay
two miles from land. The captain did not know the bay nearer shore and would
not go in, but he did not forget to charge two dollars and fifty cents a
thousand for such service as he was willing to render. The men rafted the
lumber and poled it to shore. On March 13, 1873, the house was raised, the
entire neighborhood being present and taking part. It still stands, a landmark
of the early days, reminder of many a pioneer gathering and festive occasion.
The land around the head of
Padilla Bay contained more peat and hence was more difficult to bring into
cultivation than that contiguous to LaConner. Some of it was so soft that,
besides underdraining, it required years of time in which to settle so that it
would bear up teams in the spring and threshing machines in the fall. As
comparatively little of the flats was diked in the early 1870s, there was no communication,
except by water, with LaConner. For the double purpose of avoiding danger in
times of rough weather and of shortening the distance, a canal a half mile long
was dug, connecting Indian and Telegraph sloughs.
Settlement above the tide flats
While the initial attempts at the
development of the beautiful archipelago now constituting the western portion
of Skagit County, together with that of the tide flats on the Swinomish, were
in progress, enterprising adventurers and fortune hunters were beginning to
realize the possibilities of the great Skagit valley above the region of the
tide flats. Families soon followed. The first white women to reach the region
lying back of the flats were: Mrs. William Gage and her two daughters, now Mrs.
Keen and Mrs. Narl; Mrs. Brice, Mrs. Jasper Gates, Mrs. D.E. Kimble and Mrs.
M.J. Kimble, soon followed by Mrs. Charles Washburn, Mrs. August Hartson and
Mrs. Isaac Lanning. It is interesting to recall that these ladies were the
first to come to that portion of what is now Skagit county, on a steamboat, the
little steamer Linnie, on which they came, was the first to reach the big jam
near Mount Vernon, arriving late in 1870. [See our web site for more on
Washburn]
The first religious service ever
held in that community was conducted by Charles Washburn and D.E. Kimble in a
house now owned by Mr. Tinkham. The first baptism occurred near Peter Vander
Kuyl's house in a little slough on the north fork of the Skagit, Rev. B.N.L.
Davis [see web site] performing the ceremony, and the recipients of it being
Mrs. Mahala Washburn, who later became Mrs. C.C. Hansen, now deceased, and Mrs.
Somers [Summers?], now Mrs. James Gaches.
The first house to be built in the
Skagit valley was erected in 1863 on the claim of W.H. Sartwell, now owned by
Magnus Anderson, about five miles below Mount Vernon. Among the first settlers
in that same general region were the following upon the South fork of the
river:
Joseph Lisk, William Kayton,
George Wilson, John Wilbur, E. McAlpine [also spelled McAlpin], L. Sweet, A.G.
Kelley, R.I. Kelley, J. Wilson and Joseph Wilson.
On the north fork:
John Guinea, William Hayes,
William Houghton, Joseph Maddox, William Brown, H.A. Wright, Peter Vander Kuyl,
Franklyn Buck and Magnus Anderson. J.V. Abbott, now dead, located May 5, 1865,
and soon after came David Anderson, who located on what afterward became known
as the old McAlpine place, upon which Skagit City grew. It is said by some that
Mr. Underwood was the first settler on the north fork, locating in or before
1865 on the place afterward taken up by Peter Vander Kuyl.
First white child on the Skagit
debated
We find also some conflicting
statements as to who is entitled to the honor of being the first white child
born on the Skagit. Some claim it for the child of Charles Washburn, while
others claim that Oliver C. Tingley, son of [Samuel] S. Tingley, born June 6,
1870, is entitled to that distinction. The first man already a pater familias
is said to have been Thomas R. Jones, whose claim was near that of Mr. Tingley
on the north fork of the river.
[Ed. note: Oliver
Tingley was the first born. You can see an explanation for this at our web
site]
Settlement on the north fork
We have already seen that the
first cabin in that neighborhood was built by W.H. Sartwell, who assisted in
the work by Orrin Kincaid and Mr. Todd. The three men soon formed a partnership
and established in the cabin a trading post for the purpose of exchanging goods
and merchandise with the Indians for furs. The difficulty of purchasing goods,
however, by reason of the exorbitant charges of the wholesalers at Seattle and
Olympia, who wished to monopolize the Indian trade themselves, rendered this
first mercantile venture on the Skagit unprofitable, and soon after Mr. Kincaid
went to California. In the meantime, Mr. Todd died and for some time Sartwell
was alone on that immediate portion of the river.
Thomas Hastie's neighbors when
he settled at Fir in 1872
Thomas P. Hastie homesteaded his
present place near Fir in June 1870, coming over from Whidbey Island. He lived
on the place on and off until he moved up in 1872. In 1870 he found the
following settlers in his neighborhood:
North fork of the Skagit:
Franklyn Buck, DeWitt Clinton
Dennison, Bus Lill, Samuel S. Tingley, Magnus Anderson, William Brown, Joseph
L. Maddox, Thomas R. Jones, Peter Vander Kuyl, Moses Kane, John Guinea, Quinby
Clark, [unknown first] Fay, T.J. Rawlins and Charles Henry.
South fork:
Orrin Kincaid, living on the
present Wilson ranch; William Sartwell, who came with Kincaid, on an adjoining
ranch; Joseph Wilson; William Johnson; William Smith; Alonzo Sweet, opposite
the site of Skagit City; Joseph Lisk; William Kayton; George "Long"
Wilson, William [McAlpine], at the site of Skagit City; and William Alexander,
who later sold out to Robert and W.L. Kelly. William Brown had settled in 1865
at the mouth of the slough to which his name was applied, and Maddox about that
year also settled on the north fork just above Brown's Slough.
Beginning about 1870 there was a
rapid influx of men with families into the regions of the lower Skagit At that
time, it was considered impracticable to locate above the big jam near the site
of the present Mount Vernon, and most of the settlers took claims in the dense
timber back of the lower river, rather than try the regions above which have
since become so attractive. True to the genuine American idea, those early
settlers soon began to establish schools, churches and other civilizing
agencies. In a building erected for a barn on the ranch of D.E. Kimble, the
first school in the Skagit valley was taught by Ida Lanning, a daughter of
Isaac Lanning, who had located nearby in 1869. She was followed after by George
E. Hartson, afterward and until the present time one of the leading citizens of
Mount Vernon. Contemporary with Miss Lanning was Zena Tingley, now Mrs. J.D.
Moores, who taught in what afterward was called Skagit district [south fork of
the Skagit around Skagit City, the first town on the river before Mount
Vernon], where she gathered her young charges in a cabin belonging to [Joseph]
Wilson.
There were many Methodists among
those early settlers, and a Methodist organization was effected about 1870 by
Rev. M.J. Luark, who was soon after succeeded by Rev. J.M. Denison.
At that early day, Skagit City
seems to have been the center of operations. At the Union Hall in that place,
all manner of public assemblages, religious meetings, political conventions,
entertainment, Good Templars' meetings, balls and socials, festivals and fairs
were accustomed to gather. The Skagit City of that time was about half a mile
above its present location. It seems to have been the general rendezvous for
canoes, scows, booms of logs and steamboats in so far as they appeared at all.
The removal of the big jam from the vicinity of Mount Vernon a few years later
destroyed the prestige of Skagit City.